Nicosia is the capital city of both North Cyprus and the South Cyprus, and the two countries’ border runs right through the middle of the old city, from west to east. The City is now the only divided capital in the entire world.
Cyprus Nicosia has been surrounded by sturdy, stone walls since the Venetians built them to deter the Ottoman invaders. The United Nations barrier of protected barbed wire, the so-called Green Line, is a symbol of the divisions between north and south.
Nowadays, you can cross the border with ease but back in 1979 it was a different story. All the more remarkable, then that the great Master Plan for the reconstruction of Nicosia was begun in this year, although work only truly started in 2001. The UN-sponsored plan is to restore important areas of both the north and south parts of the Cyprus Nicosia City. |
Nicosia is emerging from years of scaffolding and coverings to reveal its truly amazing architecture. There bare several Gothic churches resplendent with minarets dating from when they were converted to mosques after the Ottoman invasion of 1571. Historic inns, such as the “Great Inn”, built for the caravans of wealthy merchants, once again have opened to welcome visitors, restored as centres for local artists. Colonial houses with their elegant balconies become homes for commercial offices, or excellent restaurants. The dry moat around the walls has been turned into a parks and pleasure grounds for everyone to enjoy. |
Cyprus Nicosia has seen years of neglect but is now a walled city full of some amazing l treasures, yet surrounded by a modern, thriving commercial city in its suburbs. The commercial centre has been built outside these walls but inside the old city, trade is booming. The bazaar and market is filled with local Northern Cyprus shopping for food and clothing, and you can shop for many different souvenirs. TRNC Restaurants tempt you with a lunch of traditional meze, or a cooling glass of beer on a hot day. You can also visit the traditional bath houses. |
Travellers would enter the Great Inn through the gate and into the open courtyard. All around the courtyard were stables, housed between impressive arches, so the first task would be to feed and stable their tired animals. Then, the merchant could either eat in the courtyard, either buying food or cooking it himself, or retire to one of the guest rooms on the upper floor. The guest rooms were on the first floor to keep the wealthy merchants safe from robbers, so the windows were also deliberately made too small for anyone to climb through.
In the winter months, a fire would be lit in the fireplace, so the rooms would have been very snug on a cold night. Each fireplace lead to a chimney, so the roofline is spiked with chimneys, each topped with a distinctive metal cone.
The Great Inn was one of the first the Ottomans built after their invasion, being constructed in 1572 on the orders of Mustafa Pasha himself. Generations of travellers stayed at the inn before the British converted it to a prison, and then later in 1893, to a hostel for destitute families. Throughout all the various uses, the little mosque remained intact in the centre of the courtyard. This small building sits atop six columns, raised above the ablutions fountain below. It’s now covered with colourful plants and makes an ideal photo opportunity.
The Great Inn was extensively restored over ten years between 1992 to 2002. Now the inn is a thriving arts centre, with both the upper guest rooms and lower stables occupied by small artist’s shops. There is a café in the corner of the courtyard where you can rest and admire the courtyard and its surroundings. |
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